The iMac G4 was the memorable follow up to Apple’s revolutionary iMac. Upon the return of Steve Jobs in 1997, he boldly transformed Apple’s products and inspired a historic line of devices. This “Flat Panel” iMac was built to highlight its attractive LCD monitor, which turned the traditional Macintosh all-in-one design on its head.
The Bondi Blue iMac released in 1998 demonstrated Apple’s renewed prowess. It ushered in a series of bold decisions, including the use of translucent materials paired with bright accent colors. After the original iMac’s nearly a five-year run, this “new iMac” retained the translucent plastics, but pivoted away from color and embraced stark white. Echoing the styling of the iPod released the year before, the iMac G4 and iPod were a matched set. Simple and stylish, both designs are now legendary.
Named for its PowerPC G4 processor, the iMac G4 came in 700MHz to 1.25GHz variants. The RISC-based PowerPC chip was a technology partnership between Apple, IBM, and Motorola. Apple used this processor across its product line: from the portable iBook and PowerBook to the tower-style Power Mac and the amazing Power Mac Cube. Even the bargain-priced eMac and the early Mac Mini and rack-mount Xserve came in G4 configurations.
The display was available in 15-inch, 17-inch, and 20-inch sizes. The half-dome base housed NVidia GeForce graphics, at least 256MB of RAM, a 40GB to 80GB hard drive, and a CD/DVD optical drive. It offered USB 1.1 or 2.0 and FireWire 400 connections. A 56Kbps modem and 100Mbps Ethernet were builtin, with Apple’s AirPort WiFi as an option. The earliest versions of this transitional iMac could run Mac OS 9.2, but later models only ran OS X Jaguar to Tiger.
This particular iMac came to me through Craigslist. It is a “Spring 2003” 17-inch model with a 1GHz PowerPC 7445 G4 processor supported by 256KB of Level 2 cache. It also has Nvidia GeForce4 MX graphics with 64MB of dedicated VRAM capable of supporting resolutions up to 1440 x 900. It came with the standard 256MB of system RAM, but a 1GB upgrade was also installed. Finally, an 80GB Ultra/ATA100 hard drive was present, along with a 4X “SuperDrive” DVD-R/CD-RW.
It had been reasonably well-preserved, but needed a good cleaning. Opening the computer was like working a 3D puzzle. It was impressive to see Apple’s precision as each part fit together with tight tolerances.
Once the computer was disassembled and thoroughly cleaned, I verified everything was in good condition and determined my upgrade options. I decided to max out the RAM, replace the 7200 RPM drive with an SSD, and add WiFi to the system. Along the way, I also replaced the battery and picked up Apple’s propriety speakers.
I kept the 1GB of laptop-style SO-DIMM memory in the user-accessible slot but secured another 1GB of DDR RAM for the logic board. The official specification limits the system’s RAM to 1GB, but a 2GB configuration works fine. For the hard drive, OWC offers a simple kit to replace the spinning drive with a 120GB Mercury Electra 3G solid-state unit. The Airport Extreme card, supporting 54Mbps 802.11g, was easy to find on eBay, and the installation couldn’t be easier tucked under the bottom plate. Unfortunately, I tried to add Bluetooth, but while Apple’s Bluetooth modules are affordable and easy to find, the cable that connects the module to the built-in antenna proved impossible to source.
After reassembling the computer, I was pleased to see it power on without issue, though it took a bit of work to get OS X installed. While I had a DVD for Mac OS 10.5 Leopard, it would not install. I was able to download a copy of 10.4 Tiger from Archive.org, but several errors occurred during the installation. Eventually, I was able to get the base Tiger OS up and running. After removing WPA2 security from my WiFi router, I was also able to test the Airport Extreme card and download a small collection of system updates.
I believe the iMac G4 is the most attractive and innovative-yet-functional computer made during Apple’s Power PC era. While my early Apple experiences were in the 68k days, soon after the G4 was retired, I returned to the Mac fold and purchased an iMac G5 for my home. I’ve had a Mac ever since. I am proud to add this beautiful machine to my collection.
The PiDP-11 is a modern replica of Digital Equipment Corporation’s influential PDP-11 minicomputer. Before we had a computer on every desk and in every home–and long before they were in every pocket–computers were large, intimidating, and locked in special rooms at universities and corporations. The PDP series paved the way for making computers more accessible.
PDP stood for Programmed Data Processor, and this distinguished line of computers was produced from 1957 to 1990. Each PDP model was numbered sequentially from the one to sixteen (skipping PDP-2 and unlucky 13). The PDP-1, PDP-8, and PDP-11 are best remembered today. The PDP-11 was DEC’s first 16-bit computer, and cost $20,000 when released in 1970. Reportedly, 600,000 units were sold over its long life, and it was the tool of choice for countless computing innovations, including the creation of UNIX and the C programming language. The 32-bit VAX minicomputer eventually replaced the venerable PDP-11.
Oscar Vermeulen is the creator of this innovative PiDP-11 kit. There is no store; you add your name to a waiting list for future shipments. I didn’t have to wait long before he emailed, saying another run was on the way. After paying and waiting for the package to arrive from Switzerland, I was ready to assemble!
I was excited by this kit for several reasons: first, I wanted a good-looking PDP-11 replica; second, I wanted to bask in the glow of blinkenlights; third, I was eager for my first Raspberry Pi project; and finally, I needed to hone my soldering skills. I was able to achieve each of these in reverse order.
Following Oscar’s instructions and after watching a series of walk-through videos, I was ready to start with the passive components. After placing and taping the diodes and resistors in place, I flipped the board and started soldering. Up to this point, I had handled both through-hole and surface-mount projects, but always in small numbers. This project allowed me to spend quality time with my iron.
For some reason, my kit was missing the 330-ohm resistors. I had resistors close to that value in my stash, but I wasn’t sure how important it was to match the designed resistance. After looking at the board, it was clear the resistors were connected to the LED lights. Thanks to help online, I learned the level of resistance could vary within a reasonable range, though it might affect the brightness of the lights. I decided to take the opportunity to expand my in-house supply and ordered a variety kit with different sizes, including the 330s I needed.
Next, I followed the instructions and placed the fiddly spacers on the LED lights and aligned them on the PCB using the provided guide. Next, I installed the pair of rotary encoders, the chip socket, and the Pi connector (on the back).
I was now ready to test my work. This involved setting up the Raspberry Pi. There is one electronics shop remaining in my area, so I stopped by to see what Pi-related gear they offered. Due to what I assumed was a pricing error (which I brought to their attention), I was able to pick up a Pi 3 Model B for less money than a stock Pi 3. Thankful for my good luck, I also purchased a suitable power supply and a 16GB memory card.
The Raspberry Pi website makes it very easy to install the Raspbian OS on the memory card and get the Pi up and running. Next, I downloaded the files needed to emulate the PDP-11 from the link provided by Oscar. After going through the testing process listed in the documentation, I felt good about my progress.
Next, I needed to wrangle switches. The instructions make it evident that some struggle to align the switches correctly. I did not have too much trouble, but I was prepared for difficulty. There is both a lower and upper guide. The lower guide helps you put the right switch in the right place. The upper guide helps align the spacing of the switches, so they aren’t cockeyed once soldered into place. Zip ties are used to squeeze the guides together to fit everything into place.
Finally, I turned my attention to the case. The case and front panel are well-made and provide a great fit and finish to the kit. I struggled to get the board and faceplate properly screwed into the case. The combination of spacers, nuts, and bolts was more troublesome than I expected. But once everything was aligned, it looked great.
By default, the front key switch is not connected, but the board is configured so the key can either turn off the 5V power or issue a software command to shutdown the Raspberry Pi. Not wanting to make a permanent decision, I soldered two wires to the key switch and installed screw terminals at both locations on the board. I then decided to place a barrel jack on the side of the case and install another screw terminal for the 5V power, bypassing the Raspberry Pi’s micro USB power connection.
First, I played around with the software shutdown option. It took some trial and error to figure out which way the key needed to turn to operate correctly, but once you flip down the Halt switch, you turn the key to issue the proper “shutdown -h now” command before unplugging the Raspberry Pi. However, I preferred to use the key to cut power to the board-mounted barrel jack. This way, I could use the PiDP-11’s “secret” shutdown switch enabled by pressing the rotary encoder, and then cut power to the Pi by turning the key. Also, it is satisfying to use the key to power on the unit. Since the Pi automatically boots into the blinkenlight display, it is easy to operate without an attached keyboard and screen.
I did attempt to install panel mount connectors to the back cover extending the Raspberry Pi’s power, USB, HDMI, and Ethernet ports, but there was not enough clearance for the cover to close properly.
I’m not done yet. I may enable a serial terminal connection for the PDP-11 emulator, and I will certainly continue to explore both the PDP and Raspberry Pi software. The point of any hobbyist kit is to tinker and learn. I can do both with this well-made piece of ’70s computing nostalgia.
This is not a satisfying tale. I was asked to repair a damaged MacBook Pro. Made in 2009, it is not exactly retro, but it’s also not something easily serviced at your local Genius Bar. When I received it, the laptop would not close properly as the screen housing was damaged and the display cable was popping out when the notebook was open. More troubling, the display showed odd color patterns, shifting certain blacks to green and inserting pink lines over some white areas.
Apple’s 2009 MacBook Pro 15-inch was one of the many unibody MacBook Pros produced between 2008 and 2012. These “pre-retina” notebooks adopted the sleek design pioneered with the MacBook Air. As Jony Ive explained at the time, the unibody construction enabled the laptops to be thinner, lighter, more robust, and with a higher degree of fit and finish than before. This “Penryn” Intel Core 2 Duo notebook came with two graphic systems: the standard NVIDIA GeForce 9400M and the NVIDIA GeForce 9600M GT with up to 512MB of dedicated SDRAM.
The battery had been replaced fairly recently and a Samsung solid state drive installed, so the computer was in decent shape aside from its display problems. After inspecting the display hinge for a while, I gathered my courage and went about disassembling the computer and removing the display assembly.
Upon closer inspection, it became clear that the adhesive holding the display hinge to the lower body had come lose. Also, likely due to a drop or sudden impact, the metal frame supporting the display had snapped at one of the screw holes. This resulted in significant weakness in the lower left assembly.
I suspected that due to the broken hinge mechanism, the LVDS LCD display cable was pinched and it’s delicate wires were shorting, causing the odd color renderings. After a replacement cable arrived, I completely disassemble the display, removing the front glass and the LCD panel from its housing, and attached the new cable to the bottom of the panel.
Assuming I was on the right path, I was ready to repair the damaged display hinge. I researched suitable epoxies and chose one with a high heat threshold. After carefully determining what parts of the frame should be glued to the aluminum back and which parts were left open to route cables, I applied the epoxy and clamped the frame in place for several hours.
Once the display was reassembled, I propped the MacBook Pro on its side to test the display without reattaching the hinge to the main body. At first I thought all was well, but after some time, the odd color patterns returned. My theory of a damaged LVDS cable was sound, but incorrect. Now I was stumped. I tried old tricks like resetting the PRAM and the SMC, wiping the hard drive, and reinstalling Mac OS, but the problem was not software related.
Eventually, I ran across an old iFixIt forum post describing a similar color-shifting problem. The post sent me researching a known issue with bad solder connections on the graphic subsystem. To test, I poked around the logic board while the computer was running, and low and behold, if I pressed in the center of the board–opposite the graphic controllers –the colors returned to normal.
I considered heating the entire logic board in an oven to re-flow the solder, but I was not that brave. Instead, I placed kapton tape around both graphics processors and heated them for several minutes with a hot air station.
I knew there was only a slight chance this would work, and if it did, it might not last long. After both NVIDIA processors were heated and the tape removed, I faced the hardest part of the project: reassembling the computer. The MacBook Pro is not an easy machine to tear down, but it’s even harder to put back together. After taking my time, I had it fully reassembled and then realized the keyboard light was not working. Opening the case again, I reattached the missing connector and tightened the screws on the bottom for the last time.
The repaired display hinge works properly and the computer closes as it should. After heating the graphics chips, the color problem is a bit better, but I’m disappointed I could not fully repair this MacBook Pro. Apple/NVIDIA’s poor solder connections are a known issue, and sadly one for which there is not a good self-repair option. Some have had luck taking the logic board to a professional lab to re-flow the connections, but that is expensive and difficult to justify for an older computer. As it is, this is now a kinda functional, but somewhat color blind, MacBook Pro.
If you have more than one pocket, why not have more than 1,000 songs in each? After building confidence restoring the 6th and final version of the iPod Classic, I was ready to take on a dual restoration of a 3rd and a 4th generation iPod.
Apple’s 3rd generation iPod was the first to come with the soon-to-be ubiquitous 30-pin dock connector and the second with a “touch wheel” interface, though its glowing red control buttons makes it unique to this day. By replacing the Firewire port, the new dock connector enabled connections via USB to PCs. First offered in 2003 and revised in 2004, this iPod has a two-inch grayscale 160 x 120 display, 8-hours of battery life, and was available in 10GB through 40GB configurations.
The 4th generation iPod was the first with the iconic “click wheel” interface and the last to come with a grayscale display. This generation launched in July 2004, with an updated but similarly spec’d display, increased battery life, and was available in 20GB or 40GB configurations. In October 2004, a “Special U2 Edition” was released in black and red–providing the first non-white iPod option. This generation was also the base for the iPod Photo, with its 60GB hard drive and a 220 x 176 display providing 65,536 colors.
To begin this restoration, I knew the batteries needed to replaced. The 4th generation model was in decent shape with a functioning hard drive, but I was uncertain about the 3rd generation’s drive. At first I thought the battery was completely dead and would not take a charge, but I later learned this model can only be powered via Firewire, and I was connecting it to a USB charger.
I visited iFixIt and picked up new batteries for both. Regardless of the drive condition, I planned to replace both spinning drives with solid state options. A few months ago, I installed an SD card in a 6th generation iPod, but for these older models, I decided to use Compact Flash.
I selected 64GB SanDisk Extreme Compact Flash cards. iFlash.xyz offers an inexpensive iFlash-CF card, but I also needed an adapter to interface with the pin connector used on the older model iPods.
Opening the 3rd generation iPod was not particularly challenging. While I was careful and used plastic picks and multiple tools to slowly work the clips free, it seems I was not careful enough. After getting the top and bottom apart, I discovered the headphone connector had separated from its cable. That was a problem!
The 4th generation unit opened fairly easily and without damage. Both units were clean and had the same 20GB 3.3V Toshiba MK2004GAL ATA-100 series hard drive running at 4200 RPM, but they were housed in somewhat different blue protective bumpers.
After removing the hard drives, both batteries were easily accessible and replaced. The 3rd generation hard drive connection cable had to be removed from the logic board to access the battery, while the 4th generation pin connector remained attached.
The iFlash card was easily installed in the 3rd generation enclosure. However, the 4th generation’s fit was more complicated. With the adapter installed, the card rested on the iPod’s internal battery connector. Unfortunately, the diagonal on the iFlash card went the wrong way to accommodate the conflict. So, after confirming no traces were impacted, I trimmed the top of the iFlash card.
I was now ready to address the broken headphone connector. I first tried gluing the 10-point connector in place using 1mm double-sided tape. I hoped the connector’s legs would make satisfactory contact once the case was securely closed, but that was wishful thinking. I considered soldering the legs in place, but given the very small size, I suspected solder would stretch across and short the legs together. Also, while the tape held the connector if treated gingerly, once the connector was inserted into the plug, the slightest movement pulled it free of the cable. So, I headed to eBay. I was able to find a seller with a handful of 3rd generation headphone assemblies at a reasonable price. After receiving delivery, it was trivial to replace.
As usual, gremlins affected the software installation. For the 4th generation model, the 64GB Compact Flash card was formatted using FAT32 Format, and it was setup with as a master boot record (MBR) partition. Once the card was inserted into the iPod and powered on, I plugged the iPod into a PC. iTunes downloaded a package onto the iPod, and then the iPod was disconnected and plugged into a wall charger. After a restart, a progress bar appeared under the Apple logo, and a few moments later, the iPod was ready to go. Returning to the PC, the unit synced and played music without issue.
The 3rd generation restoration was not as smooth. After following the same format process, the iPod entered disk mode but was not recognized by iTunes or Windows. While troubleshooting the problem, the unit’s battery died. As noted above, this is when I discovered the iPod would only charge if connected to a Firewire cable. After letting it sit overnight plugged into a Firewire wall charger, I returned to the software problem. Now realizing the importance of Firewire, I thought perhaps things would work better if the iPod was connected to a Macintosh using a Firewire cable, and luckily, I had a mid-2007 iMac with a Firewire 400 port.
Since the iPod was going into disk mode, the Mac’s disk utility could see the drive. I decided to reformat it as an OS X Extended volume, and I was thrilled to see the drive pop up in the Finder. I was even more excited when iTunes launched. The system sat for several minutes, and then amazingly the iPod was recognized by iTunes and the restoration process began. I assumed I was home free, but no.
Once restored, the iPod connected with the Mac, but upon disconnection it would freeze. I soon learned that the unit never went to sleep and the battery eventually died. I had to regularly reboot the iPod by holding down the menu and play buttons. So, obviously there were problems. I entered diagnostic mode by holding down the previous, center select, and next buttons, but none of the tests were helpful.
Unsatisfied, I decided to try a smaller and slower Compact Flash card. This time, I selected a 32GB SanDisk running at 60MBps instead of 120MBps. This slower speed was still twice as fast the Toshiba drive’s 31.6MBps. Once the new card arrived, I formatted it to FAT32 using Linux, but Window’s iTunes still did not recognize it and the iPod was constantly rebooting and showing the folder icon with an exclamation mark. So, I headed back to the Mac and reformatted it for OS X, but that did not work either, and the iPod still showed the folder and exclamation mark. Perplexed, I eventually used a utility that showed me the card’s partition table, and I discovered that somewhere along the way (likely when using Linux), an EFI system partition was created on the drive. My subsequent formatting attempts did not impact the hidden EFI partition. After deleting it, I used Windows to format the entire drive, and everything feel into place. iTunes recognized the iPod, loaded the restoration package, and after plugging into a Firewire external charger and rebooting, the restoration completed and the iPod could sync without issue to iTunes on both Windows and Macintosh. The strangeness also disappeared. The drive disconnected without hanging and the battery now appears to behave normally.
I enjoyed this dual restoration. Such projects are a mental puzzle, and it forces me to recall long-forgotten tech memories. The 3rd generation iPod will go back to my friend, and I will enjoy a second life for my 4th generation iPod. I hoped to use it in my car, but at some point Ford’s SYNC removed iPod integration. Nevertheless, it is good to have my music library once again packed into a sleek white a silver box–available to me anytime with the click of a wheel.
Compaq was a bold and innovative company, producing some of the best computers of the 1980s. Founded by trio of former Texas Instrument employees, the company famously (and legally) reverse-engineered the IBM PC and created the first successful portable PC. After making a name for itself, Compaq pivoted to the desktop. The Deskpro line of computers was known for quality, speed, and a steep purchase price. In 1986, the Deskpro 386 was the first computer with Intel’s groundbreaking 80386 processor, ushering in the 32-bit revolution. The later Deskpro 386s, manufactured in 1988, had an updated form factor and another first–this time with Intel’s new 80386SX processor.
The Deskpro 386s was positioned as an entry-level 386, offering a 32-bit processor but running on a 16-bit data bus. This particular unit is a Model 40, with a 16MHz 80386SX processor, 4MB of RAM (located on the proprietary memory expansion card), built-in VGA graphics, a 40MB Conner hard drive, and both 3.5-inch and 5.25-inch floppies. Along with a single 9-pin serial and parallel port, the computer has two PS/2 ports for connecting a mouse and keyboard. This was an innovation, as the PS/2 interface was created the year before for IBM’s PS/2 line of computers.
The Deskpro 386s sales flyer clearly positions this system as Compaq’s attempt to best IBM’s mid-range PS/2s, such as the PS/2 Model 50. IBM’s newest 286 ran at 10MHz offering 2MB of RAM, VGA graphics, and built on the new Micro Channel Architecture. Given the competition, this Deskpro was a strong play to dominate the mid-level corporate market.
This particular computer was an eBay find. I was looking for a solid 386, and Compaq is a gold standard. The unit arrived untested and in rough condition. After opening the case, I found a number of dead spiders and a fair amount of rust. Though, I was pleased to see a well-populated memory card and a self-contained battery safely attached to the side of the case. I was also pleased to track down the general maintenance and service manual for the Deskpro 386 line and the individual spec sheet for this 386s.
The first order of business was to completely tear down the computer, cleaning as I went. I was particularly interested in the custom power supply, as it would be difficult to source a replacement. After cracking open the PSU, I had concerns. One of the electrolytic capacitors was bulging and there was corrosion around it. Also, the PCB had burned near a thick-film metal glaze power resistor.
The capacitor was easily replaced, though I had to use non-conductive paint to repair the damage caused by the corrosion. The hot resistor was a bit more complicated. After researching the issue, I suspected the resistor might be working as expected, but it was simply too close to the less-heat tolerant circuit board. Therefore, I removed the resistor and re-soldered it a bit higher from the PCB and placed heat-resistant kapton tape under the reinstalled component.
I was finally ready to power it on. The power supply utilizes a proprietary connector, and I was unable to find the connector’s pinout information. Therefore, I plugged it in to the motherboard, added one of the drives so there was a reasonable load on the PSU, and I held my breath. Unfortunately, my test resulted in a periodically flashing of the motherboard’s LED and a simultaneous flash of the floppy drive’s activity light. Checking with my multimeter, I found odd and varying voltages, but the most common reading was 30V–hardly what was expected.
Given the propriety design, and lacking any detailed technical documentation, I was uncertain whether the problem was with the PSU or the motherboard. After setting the project aside for awhile, I took to eBay and found another Compaq Deskpro 386s available for parts. I was watching the item, but the “Buy Now” price was too high for me. After some time, the seller noted my interest and offered to sell me the computer at half the asking price. I jumped on the offer, and now had two questionable Deskpro 386s computers.
The second computer was rustier than the first, but the front plastic was in better condition. It lacked a hard drive and had less RAM, but was otherwise very similar. According to dates on various components, it appeared to be manufactured a few months after the first Deskpro.
The power supply from the second computer had slightly different markings, but otherwise looked identical. I resumed my testing with the second PSU and found the same results. Feeling frustrated, I pulled the second computer’s motherboard from its case and connected it to the PSU, floppy drive, and speaker. Instead of a blinking LED, I heard long and short beeps of the PC speaker and saw normal activity from the floppy drive. I swapped the second PSU for the repaired unit and got the same results. So, both power supplies operated normally, but the original motherboard had a critical fault. Perhaps the surface-mount tantalum capacitors near the power supply connector were the problem, but that repair can wait.
I was finally ready to reassemble the computer, picking the best parts available from either computer as I went, but first I had to deal with the rust. I had learned of the benefits of fallout remover from Adrian Black’s YouTube video. I stripped the machine down to bare metal, taped off stickers or markings, and applied the smelly Iron Free compound one piece at a time. I watched as the yellow chemical turned rust into a wine color. After a few minutes, I wiped the pieces dry.
After the fallout treatment, if necessary, I sanded the treated spots until I saw clean metal and then prepared to paint. For the inside of the case, I selected Krylon’s Fusion Matte Glacier Gray spray paint. This provided a fresh and clean look to the inside components. For the exterior top and sides of the case, I used Krylon’s Satin Almond, but the color was a bit warmer than I hoped. Matte Clamshell was an alternative I also considered.
I addressed rust on various ports and small components, but with the power supply reinstalled, I added the motherboard and was pleased with the clean and shinny computer coming together on my bench.
Luckily, I was able to secure the appropriate blank face plate from the second Deskpro, and I cleaned and lubricated the floppy drives. The battery was the last hardware detail. While I was able to find a new replacement Tadiran 3.6V battery, it took me awhile to notice the pins were not the same. With a little fiddling, I was able to move the red wire next to the black, matching the pins on the motherboard.
While hardware is fun to tinker with, computers are built to run software. Before I could do that I had to configure the system. I was able to find the spec sheet describing the motherboard DIP switches, but kindly Compaq also posts such pertinent information on the inside panel of the computer. While this computer is more sophisticated than earlier XT computers, it does not have a boot-configurable BIOS. Compaq’s early computers are setup through a floppy-based configuration utility. Luckily, this software is still available online along with Compaq’s OEM version of DOS 3.31, complete with customized setup and utility applications.
After some trial and error, I confirmed all 4MBs of the RAM were working; then I moved on to the hard drive. In another first, Compaq was the first to support IDE hard drives. The Conner hard drive in this 386s appeared to be in good condition. After making the appropriate Type 43 selection with the configuration software, I was happy to see “Starting MS-DOS…” on the Model 470A Compaq VGA Color Monitor.
The computer appears to have been used in an elementary school classroom. DOS 6.22 was installed and the hard drive’s well-organized contents consisted exclusively of age-appropriate educational titles, except for a stock version of Windows 3.1 . The hard drive runs fine, but the spinning platters sound a bit odd each time the computer starts. For that reason, I decided to install a Compact Flash adapter with a 256MB card. The provided IDE cable is a custom length, barely long enough to stretch from the motherboard to the single hard drive. I attempted to replace the cable with a longer one capable of connecting both the Conner drive and the Compact Flash adapter, but I was unable to get either drive to work unless I used Compaq’s provided cable. I don’t understand how the cable could be customized, but at the moment, I am only able to use the short cable to connect one drive at a time to the onboard controller.
Thankfully, with the help of an XTIDE card, I could install the Compact Flash card as a second drive and backup the original Conner drive. Installing XTIDE was tricky. After much mucking around, I finally discovered the XTIDE needed the latest IDE_386 binary file flashed to its EEPROM and block mode must be disabled for the legacy drive to reliably copy files.
Compaq was a standout among IBM-clone manufactures. In its early days, the company was rightfully regarded for its innovation and quality. Thankfully, this computer was well-made and is reliable once more. I am proud to own an early Compaq, as it characterizes the spirit and promise of the early PC era.
The iPod fueled Apple’s resurgence. While the iMac and iBook indicated change was underway, it was the iPod that made Apple a household name again. It was also the classic iPod that pivoted Apple from a computer company to a consumer electronics behemoth.
This model is the last of a historic line. Unofficially knows as the 7th generation iPod Classic, this 2nd revision of the 6th version maxed the storage to 160GB and sold from 2009 to 2014. This final Classic sports a 2.5-inch color LCD display providing 320 x 240 resolution with an LED backlight.
This particular iPod clearly endured several drops and scrapes. The aluminum cover held up fairly well despite its dings and dents. It’s the battery that wore down with steady use. Luckily, a replacement was readily available thanks to iFixIt.
When restoring an iPod, the first step is the most difficult: opening the darn thing. After watching several useful videos, I secured the right tools and manhandled my way into the device.
Once the iPod was opened, I was decided to do as much as I could to preserve the unit before sealing it back in its aluminum vault. While the 160GB 4200RPM ATA-66 spinning drive still worked, one day entropy would ensure its demise. So I went online and discovered the useful iFlash product line. There are a variety of solid state drive replacements available, and I selected the iFlash Solo. This customized device allows a wide variety of SD/SDHC/SDXC cards to replace the stock hard drive. I purchased a compatible Samsung 128GB U3 Micro SDXC, but in hindsight, I could have gone with an iFlash Dual and installed a 32GB card along with the 128GB to keep the iPod at its original 160GB of storage.
The screen was functional, but it had taken damage. A crack and dents in the plastic cover, along with a corresponding fuzzy blob on the display, were scars left from something impacting the screen. After some eBay searches, I found a low-cost replacement. Installing the new display required unscrewing the side brackets and peeling away the front cover from the main board and click wheel mechanism. Once in place, it was as good as new.
Before closing the case, I plugged in the 30-pin connector and made sure it would power up and screen functioned properly. I was greeted with a “Restore iPod” message and the battery began charging. Luckily, I happened to notice a post on the iFlash website detailing an issue with large capacity SDXC cards resulting in slow music transfers, odd syncing errors, song skipping, and even system crashes. The cross-platform iPod’s were formatted using FAT32, and modern SDXC cards come formatted with exFAT. Therefore, I needed to reformat the card before buttoning up the iPod.
Reformatting the SDXC to FAT32 was more complicated than I expected. FAT32 accompanied Windows 95 and replaced the venerable FAT16 as Windows’ default drive format. Microsoft has not allowed drives larger than 32GB to utilize FAT32 for some time, though the format can support drives up to 2TB. Many believe Microsoft created this barrier to force users to accept the more robust Windows NT-inspired NTFS file system. Later, the capable exFAT format became a cross-platform standard. However, I could still utilize FAT32 thanks to a handy third-party tool: FAT32 Format. I wiped and setup a clean partition and then used FAT32 Format to ready the drive for iTunes.
While this last of the iPod Classics may not be considered retro technology by some, it is a discontinued product from a bygone era. An era where portable digital music became the norm, and we grew to expect access to any song at any time with the click of a wheel.
Restoring vintage computers is certainly nostalgic, but it is also therapeutic. It feels good to clean something dirty, restore something old, and improve something so it lasts. I have a long history with this early Celeron computer; so awakening it from its long slumber was particularly satisfying.
When Dell created the Dimension V333c, it was was a great value at an important time in PC history. The race between Intel, AMD, and Cyrix was neck and neck, and Intel was trying to upend the market with its Pentium line of processors. While the original Pentiums (P5s) were a decent upgrade from the 486 processors, the architecture noticeably matured with the Pentium II (P6) systems.
Intel’s Celeron was a low-end Pentium II, with the front-side bus limited to 66MHz, and little to no L2 processor cache. The processor in the V333c is a second generation Medocino Celeron using Intel’s 440BX chipset and running at 333MHz with 32KB of L1 and 128KB of L2 cache available for the processor.
The V333c was released a few months after Microsoft’s Windows 98, and Dell’s reasonable price and well-rounded configuration attracted attention.
I rediscovered this system in early 2019. It had been in storage for many years, and I could have formed a full-sized rabbit from the dust bunnies inside. After a thorough cleaning, I replaced the battery, tested the power supply, and powered it on. It booted to Dell’s A08 BIOS without issue. The original Maxtor hard drive still worked, though the system struggled under the weight of the later installed Windows 2000 operating system. To give it a performance boost, I replaced the spinning drive with an IDE to CompactFlash adapter and upgraded the RAM from the stock 64MB to the maximum 384MB .
The installation of the CompactFlash adapter was fairly straightforward once I realized the BIOS would not recognize a large drive. Going with an 8GB card worked fine. Once the fast and capable drive was installed, I loaded Windows 98 SE and luckily could still find the necessary device drivers on Dell’s support site.
Built during a transitional time, the motherboard has two legacy 16-bit ISA expansion slots along with three PCI slots. It sports a 3.5-inch floppy, a 32X CD-ROM, and a Iomega Zip drive. Connectivity was available through traditional serial, parallel, and PS/2 ports, but also includes two USB connectors and built-in 10/100 Ethernet. The video system has an SXGA-capable ATI Rage Pro AGP 2X controller with 8MB of SDRAM. Sound is handled by the onboard MIDI, OPL3, and Sound Blaster Pro-compatible Yamaha YMF724 audio controller.
To enhance its “in-between” usefulness, I tried unsuccessfully to install at 5.25-inch floppy drive in an empty drive bay. Unfortunately, the BIOS would not recognize a second floppy, and installing an ISA-based floppy controller only resulted in frustration. However, I’ve not given up hope, as it would be helpful to access 5.25, 3.5, Zip, and CD-ROM media in one machine.
The V333c was a well-regarded, value-based home system in its day, and the computer’s versatility and dependable components have enabled it to stand the test of time.